In the traditional and sometimes glacial world of Swiss watchmaking, the birth of a new brand is frequently met with an unappetising cocktail of scepticism and weary curiosity. The industry is, after all, a landscape dominated by storied giants and conglomerates with the marketing wherewithal to bring narratives to life; many once-mighty names lie in shallow graves after the wellspring of marketing dollars to spin fanciful tales ran dry. Still others survive in virtually unrecognisable forms, but we digress…

When Norqain debuted in 2018, the timing was particularly, shall we say, interesting. It arrived on the heels of the seismic sale of Breitling to CVC Capital Partners, a transition that left a vacuum for those seeking the independent, family-driven spirit that had once defined the famous “B” of Grenchen.

Among the architects of this new venture was the Küffer family, led by CEO Ben Küffer and his father Marc, alongside a board that included horological royalty like Ted Schneider and, eventually, the legendary Jean-Claude Biver. Since that “big splash” at its launch, the brand has navigated unprecedented ups and downs in the world – and still is. In this context, successfully managing shifting consumer habits is perhaps a little prosaic, but Norqain has indeed managed. Today, it is something far more formidable than a mere startup. In an exclusive sit-down with Tobias Küffer, Vice President of Norqain, we explore how the brand transitioned from a bold newcomer to the self-described “Swiss mechanical sports watch specialist.” For Küffer, the journey has been defined by a refusal to produce “more of the same” and an unwavering commitment to authenticity.

From Startup to Challenger

The initial perception of Norqain was that of a fresh-faced startup, a label that Tobias Küffer is now happy to shed. The momentum, particularly last year, suggests a brand that has found its stride. “The brand has really been making some noise globally,” Küffer notes, highlighting a string of high-profile entries into the inner circle of Norqain. “If we just look at 2025, we have Gigi Buffon who joined the company as a partner and shareholder; Gary Neville, Man United legend – I know Man United is big in Singapore as well; then we have Stan Wawrinka who joined.”

But noise is nothing without substance. In the watch industry, substance is measured in micrometres and manufacturing prowess. When asked how the brand has evolved since its debut, Küffer is quick to point to the visual and technical maturity of the current collection. “In terms of product, I think if you would have looked at our collection then versus now, the first thing you would notice is a lot more colours,” he says. But beneath the vibrant dials lies a more profound shift. “We really see ourselves now not as a startup, but we see ourselves as the challenger brand and the Swiss mechanical sports watch specialist.”

This specialist status is anchored by the brand’s three pillars: Independence, Adventure, and Freedom. Each collection serves a specific purpose, allowing Norqain to be creative across multiple fronts simultaneously. While the Freedom collection leans into heritage and emotion, and the Adventure collection serves as the “functional sports watch,” it is the Independence collection – specifically the Wild One – that has rewritten the brand’s trajectory.

Real Wild Child

If Jean-Claude Biver is the patron saint of modern Swiss watchmaking, then the Wild One might be his most recent miracle. Developed over two years under his mentorship, the Wild One was not a part of the initial Norqain lineup, yet it now accounts for a staggering third of the brand’s turnover. “That’s really something we developed for two years with Mr. Biver,” Küffer explains. “Typically, really going into that sporty DNA, we wanted to create a watch which is super light, robust, scratch-resistant, so you can really wear it and it won’t disturb you during sports activities.”

The technical achievement of the Wild One centres on Norteq, a proprietary carbon fibre composite that is six times lighter than steel and three-and-a-half times lighter than titanium. But weight is only half the story. The watch features a complex case construction involving a rubber shock absorber that sandwiches a titanium container for the movement.

“Then you have the 5,000g shock resistance, thanks to Mr. Biver’s brainchild of a special case construction,” Küffer adds. “And that’s really put Norqain on the next level globally. It’s really a big success for us.” This innovation has attracted a niche of collectors who are increasingly disillusioned with the fragility of high-end sports watches. For Küffer, the Wild One is not just about the spec sheet; it is about the partnership with the makers. He points to BIWI, the Swiss specialist behind Norqain’s materials. “They do all the materials for Richard Mille. So, they’re used to very, very high quality, high standards. And they develop all our materials as well.”

The result is a watch that appeals to the “niche that goes into the details,” according to Küffer. “The functionality is very important. I have many customers who have this watch who don’t care about what Norteq consists of; what they care about is, ‘Ah, it’s super light and I can wear it to play tennis or golf.’”

Emotional Core: Enjoying Life

While the Wild One represents the high-tech “Independence” of the brand, the Freedom collection has recently captured hearts through a completely different lens: pure, unadulterated positivity. The “Enjoy Life” series, which features dials inspired by ice cream flavours – blueberry, strawberry, and pistachio – became an overnight sensation that even Norqain did not fully predict.

“I love the story of ‘Enjoy Life,’ and it makes me even happier that it was such a success,” Küffer shares. The project began as a brainstorming session to counter the “negativity in the world right now,” from war to economic crises. The team wanted to focus on the simple joy their own children felt when getting an ice cream.

“We went to the Geneva watch fair with this design, and I said, ‘This is a 50-50 watch. Some will love it, the others will hate it, but we anyway never want to produce something which everybody loves, because that will end up being something nobody cares about, right?’”

The gamble paid off. Having budgeted for 300 pieces, Norqain received 1,400 orders in the first month. Beyond the sales figures, however, Küffer recalls a letter from a customer in Japan that reinforced the brand’s purpose. The customer, facing a terminal medical diagnosis, wrote that the “Enjoy Life” watch reminded him to savour every second he had left.

“What better can you do than to touch people emotionally with exactly the idea which we discussed in that first brainstorming session?” Küffer reflects. “That’s why this, for me, is a very, very special piece.”

Navigating the “Tough” Segment

In the Swiss watch hierarchy, the price segment between CHF3,000 and 7,000 is often cited by analysts as the most challenging. It is a space where brands must compete with the legacy of mass-market luxury while trying to offer true horological value. For Norqain, this is home.

“I think our place is exactly where we are now; I think we need to stay in that price segment,” Küffer asserts. “We see our strengths (in this range). Of course, there can always be special developments… but the core collection, we see ourselves being right where we are.”

Küffer acknowledges that the industry as a whole has faced a challenging year, but he attributes Norqain’s growth to the brand’s willingness to evolve. “I think as long as we don’t stand still, the segment will continue to develop. And I think for those who do stand still, it’s going to remain tough.”

Part of this success stems from Norqain’s unique approach to brand ambassadorship. Rather than paying celebrities for short- term endorsements, Norqain invites them to become invested partners. This was the strategy used with Buffon and Neville. “This traditional ambassador approach of having a famous face and paying him a lot of money for a certain period of time – say, two years – and then after two years another brand comes, pays more… for us, that doesn’t suit our vision and it’s not authentic,” Küffer says. “Instead, we offered them the possibility to invest.”

This investment creates a long-term commitment that translates into genuine brand advocacy. Gary Neville, for instance, is an entrepreneur with five businesses in the UK and an investor on Dragons’ Den. He brings a level of strategic insight that a typical face-of-the-brand cannot.

The Future: 2026 and Beyond

As Watches and Wonders approaches <this interview took place before the fair – Ed>, the air at Norqain is thick with anticipation. Küffer is tight-lipped but clearly energized about the roadmap ahead. “I can say that 2026 is going to be our most innovative year so far in terms of product,” he teases. Even further on the horizon is the brand’s 10-year anniversary in 2028, for which they are already developing a “blockbuster project.” This is unsurprising, of course – just have a read about what Blancpain President Marc A. Hayek said about that brand’s coming 300th anniversary.

For the Singaporean collector – one of the most sophisticated in the world – Norqain offers a compelling alternative to the establishment. It is a brand built on the premise that mechanical watches are not just tools, but emotional anchors, which is a message that resonates across all reputable brands, new and old. “I’m not worried about the mechanical watch losing interest for the next generations,” Küffer concludes. “I mean, already, if you start with men, for a lot of men, it’s the only piece of jewellery they’ll wear, right? You talk about emotions – I always say nine out of 10 watches are sold based on emotions.”

In a world of digital distractions, Norqain is betting on the tactile, the mechanical, and the emotional. Whether it is through a 5,000g shock-resistant Wild One or a pistachio-coloured reminder to “Enjoy Life,” (and its successor, the “Sprinkle”) Norqain is proving that there is indeed plenty of room for a new Swiss brand – provided it has the courage to be different.

Words and Interview by Ashok Soman

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #84 Vision 2026 issue.

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