It’s been 17 months since I first questioned whether anyone even needed another recipe for a basque cheesecake — the burnished, custardy and uncluttered kind that hails from San Sebastián, Spain — and concluded that in fact, I did.

I wanted one that was smaller, because I didn’t want to make a 2- to 3-pound commitment to cheese [which, honestly, sounds like a beautiful thing otherwise] every time the craving struck. A loaf pan was ideal for efficiency, portability, and easy slicing. A food processor allowed us to make the batter in just minutes, even if the cream cheese was cold from the fridge. A little cornstarch instead of flour enabled the cheesecake to be gluten-free, always a win.

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